At the 23rd IFSCC Congress in Orlando, Florida, Cognis’ Care Chemicals Business and the group’s Laboratoires Sérobiologiques (LS) subsidiary presented new active ingredients and delivery technology that target the wellness trend. At its booths and in several sessions, Cognis presented a number of new products and concepts that enable next generation formulation. In addition, LS presented information on Active Powders technology for incorporating water-soluble actives into anhydrous make up formulations, and DN-AGE^®, a new active ingredient to prevent UV-induced skin aging via DNA protection.

Additional product benefits mean increased growth opportunities: Cetiol^® CC (Dicaprylyl Carbonate) emollient has been very successful for Cognis in the dry emollient market due to its excellent all-round performance. Formulators of sun care products can benefit from its ability to solubilize organic UV filters and disperse pigments, and its light, dry, powdery skin-feel. Thus the capability for development of sun screens with a high load of both organic and inorganic UV filters without negatively affecting skin-feel. Its compatibility with different emollients and its smooth, soft sensory profile make Cetiol^® CC suitable for use in almost any face and body care formulation. Formulators can now take advantage of the positive aspects of silicon oils, without compromising performance.

The emulsifying polymer Cosmedia^® SP, also showed at the IFSCC, and its liquid version Cosmedia^® SPL enables formulators to achieve very stable emulsions that feel light on the skin and are easy to spread, giving them opportunity to develop products without using traditional emulsifiers. It is highly effective in a wide range of applications, including face care products suitable for sensitive skin, special care treatments with a richer texture, body care systems and spray-on sun care products. Even low concentrations provide excellent results, enabling improved cost efficiency. It is processable with a broad range of oil phases including vegetable oils, and also compatible with polar solvents such as ethanol.

Cognis presented Plantapon^® LGC Sorb, the next generation APG^® (Alkyl Glucosides) surfactant, at the poster session of the congress. APG^® surfactants are made from glucose and naturally derived fatty alcohols, and based entirely on renewable resources. By introduction of an anionic group into the APG^® molecule, this new surfactant succeeds in combining the characteristic mildness of APG^® with attributes such as foam and sensory benefits valued by consumers. Plantapon^® LGC Sorb, (INCI: Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate and Lauryl Glucoside) is a liquid surfactant that is suitable for various personal care cleansing applications, such as mild facial washes and special sulfate-free shampoos.

Cognis also introduced two new co-surfactants, Plantapon^® LC 7 and Plantapon^® ACG 50. Plantapon^® LC 7 combines the benefits of moisturizing fruit derivatives with a degree of mildness that far surpasses that of traditional co-surfactants. Citric acid-based Plantapon^® LC 7 is the first 100% active liquid co-surfactant to provide extra moisture, and mildness to personal care and baby cleansing formulations such as shampoos and body/facial washes. Due to its 100% active state, it is suitable for use in non-aqueous formulations such as shower gels and bath oils. The recently launched Plantapon^® ACG 50 (Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate) is a highly concentrated addition to the Acylglutamate surfactant range. With a minimum surfactant content of 44%, the product offers excellent economics in its class.

Active Powders is an innovative technology that, for the first time, enables water-soluble actives to be incorporated into anhydrous formulations, including make-up formulations such as loose or pressed powders, compacts and sticks. LS hereby broadens the range of claims that can be made for treatment make-up, strengthening and diversifying its position in the field of high-value active ingredients for the personal care sector. Active Powders contain up to 70% hydrophilic particles (20–40 µm), protected by a hydrophobic polymer. In hydrophilic particles, the solubilized active content can be as high as 90%, thus the powdered form can be up to 63% of an aqueous solution. The range will at term comprise five products, each one with a specific cosmetic claim. The first product to be launched, Active Powder Firmness^® LS 9689, delivers anti-aging benefits thanks to the anti-elastase and anti-plasmin activity of its active fraction (clinical demonstration of efficacy).

Another highlight of the IFSCC congress was DN-AGE^®, an LS product that provides natural protection against UV-induced damage to cellular DNA. Extracted from the leaves of the candle bush (Senna alata), rich in an identified photo-protective molecule, DN-AGE^® reduces DNA damage caused by UVA and UVB radiations, both at the nuclear and mitochondrial level. Also involved in the support of natural repair processes, DN-AGE^® acts against visible signs of aging, improving the micro relief of the skin. It is suitable for use in anti-aging sun care products or protective day care ranges.

In recent years, wellness has become one of the most important global growth markets in terms of health, beauty, anti-aging benefits and convenience. In 1995, the global wellness market, including fitness and health, was estimated at 100 billion dollars. By 2001 the figure had risen to more than 200 billion dollars, and by 2010 it is expected to reach 1,000 billion dollars. “Particularly in countries where the care market is saturated, such as the USA, additional product benefits like moisturizing and improved performance will be the drivers of the care chemicals markets of tomorrow,” comments Richard Ridinger, Vice President Care Chemicals Cognis. “Specialty chemicals suppliers have to offer more than just single products. We intend to play a proactive role in shaping market trends by offering formulation know-how and solutions, including market ready concepts that match consumer needs and give our customers a competitive advantage.”

About Cognis:
Cognis is a worldwide supplier of innovative specialty chemicals and nutritional ingredients. As at June 30, 2004, the company employed about 8,400 people, and it operates production sites and service centers in 30 countries. Cognis has dedicated its activities to a high level of sustainability and delivers natural source raw materials and ingredients for food, nutrition and healthcare markets, and the cosmetics, detergents and cleaners industries. Additionally, Cognis provides solutions for a number of other industries, such as coatings and inks, lubricants, textiles and plastics, as well as agriculture and mining.

Cognis is owned by private equity funds advised by Permira, GS Capital Partners, and Schroder Ventures Life Sciences. In 2003, Cognis recorded sales of 2.95 billion euros and an Adjusted EBITDA (earnings before interest, income taxes, depreciation, amortization and exceptional items) of 312 million euros.

Contact Wulf Klüppelholz, Corporate Communications Manager
Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG
Phone: +49-211-7940-6679
E-mail: wulf.klueppelholz@cognis.com
Internet: www.cognis.com

Kathy Bollmer, Communications Manager
Cognis Corporation
Phone: +1-513-482-3016
E-mail: kathy.bollmer@cognis.com
Internet: www.cognis.com