Active Powders – incorporating water-soluble actives into anhydrous cosmetics

Modern women have busy lifestyles, rising stress levels and little time. As a result, they are making increasing demands on multifunctional cosmetics, for instance, the development of 2-in-1 treatment make-up. However, until recently, water-soluble actives could not be incorporated into anhydrous make-up, and so it was not possible to combine cosmetic effects with care benefits such as anti-aging properties or moisturization. Active Powders from Laboratoires Sérobiologiques (LS), a subsidiary of the Cognis group, is an innovative technology that facilitates the incorporation of water-soluble actives into all kinds of anhydrous cosmetic formulations, including pressed powders, lipsticks and compacts.

Modern decorative cosmetics already offer consumers more or less all they require in terms of choice of colors and sensory profile, but customers are now also looking for additional skincare benefits. Up till now, the use of water-soluble actives in make-up products with anhydrous formulations has not been possible, because of process restrictions and incompatibilities between raw materials. Active Powders is a patented technology that for the first time enables water-soluble actives to be incorporated into anhydrous formulations. It contains up to 70 percent hydrophilic particles (20–40 µm), protected by a hydrophobic polymer. In each hydrophilic particles, the solubilized active can reach up to 90%. The powdered form can deliver up to 63 percent of an aqueous solution.

The Active Powders range will include products to support all the major cosmetic claims, including anti-aging, skin moisturization, sebum regulation and skin lightening. The first product to be launched on the market, Active Powder Firmness^® LS 9689 contains an active fraction that gives anti-aging benefits through its anti-elastase and anti plasmin activity. A clinical test demonstrates its capability to improve the skin firmness. Additionally, Active Powder Firmness improves the sensory profile of anhydrous powders.

Active Powders technology can be used in anhydrous cosmetics such as loose or pressed powders, sticks (lipsticks, make-up sticks, or concealers) and compact make-up (hot-poured formulations).

Scientifically proven effects:
Histological tests have proven that Active Powders technology improves the bio-availability of the active, by spontaneous diffusion of the ingredient into the skin without any need for rubbing. A clinical study carried out on 15 female volunteers confirmed the benefits of Active Powder Firmness. A hot-poured compact make-up containing five percent Active Powder Firmness improved the firmness of the skin by 20 percent compared to a placebo formulation. An in vivo test has shown the ability of Active Powders to withstand high-pressure processes: the active incorporated in the Active Powders was released as effectively in a pressed powder as in a loose one.

New marketing claims:
“Consumers today expect multifunctionality and greater efficacy from their daily products,” says Isabelle Benoit, Marketing Manager LS. “With its Active Powders technology, LS enables cosmetics producers to combine skin care and color cosmetics, broadening the range of care claims that can be made with color products. It’s time for make-up to enter a new dimension.”

About Laboratoires Sérobiologiques:
Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, specialist in the creation, manufacturing and sale of innovative active ingredients and concepts for cosmetics, is a subsidiary of Cognis.

About Cognis:
Cognis is a worldwide supplier of innovative specialty chemicals and nutritional ingredients. As at June 30, 2004, the company employed about 8,400 people, and it operates production sites and service centers in 30 countries. Cognis has dedicated its activities to a high level of sustainability and delivers natural source raw materials and ingredients for food, nutrition and healthcare markets, and the cosmetics, detergents and cleaners industries. Additionally, Cognis provides solutions for a number of other industries, such as coatings and inks, lubricants, textiles and plastics, as well as agriculture and mining.

Cognis is owned by private equity funds advised by Permira, GS Capital Partners, and Schroder Ventures Life Sciences. In 2003, Cognis recorded sales of 2.95 billion euros and an Adjusted EBITDA (earnings before interest, income taxes, depreciation, amortization and exceptional items) of 312 million euros.

Contact:
Isabelle Stussi, Communications Laboratoires Sérobiologiques
Division de Cognis France
Phone: +33-3-83299789
e-Mail: isabelle.stussi@cognis.com
Internet: www.laboratoires-serobiologiques.com

Wulf Klüppelholz, Corporate Communications Manager
Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG
Phone: +49-211-7940-6679
e-Mail: wulf.klueppelholz@cognis.com
Internet: www.cognis.com